Which Setting Style Should I Choose?
Diamonds can be set in a number of ways, each have a large impact on the overall look of each engagement ring. Whatever the style of your dream engagement ring, our designers and goldsmiths will always work to set each diamond in a way that maximises its size and sparkle.
4 and 6 Claw Engagement Rings
Typically, most diamonds are set with either a 4 or 6 claw setting. The 6 claw setting is one of the most classic, often referred to as the ‘Tiffany Setting’, in which 6 symmetrical claws hold the centre diamond in place. A 4 claw setting has a similar, traditional appeal. Some prefer the 4 claw setting as it uses less metal around the diamond, allowing for the diamond to stand out from its setting, rather than be shrouded within it.
Not all diamond shapes are suitable for 4 and 6 claw settings - for example, a pear shape diamond solitaire would fair better in a three claw setting, featuring two claws at the rounded base, and a box claw at the pointed tip of the diamonds.
When a diamond is set with a 4 claw setting, the claws are typically set parallel to the band. A ‘compass’ or ‘North East South West’ setting, however, sees the claws at the top, bottom and either side of the diamond when viewed from above, as if points on a compass
Box Claw Engagement Rings
A box claw is similar to a typical claw, however, is used on the corners of angular shapes such as princess cuts and the point of pear shapes. This type of claw is used to efficiently secure the corners of the diamond, which otherwise may be as risk of chipping.
Rubover Engagement Rings
A rubover, otherwise referred to as ‘bezel’ setting, is a modern approach to setting a diamond, and can make for a contemporary engagement ring. Just as it sounds, the metal is literally pushed up and over the outer edges of the diamond, meaning the diamond is edged completely by the metal. At Hearts of London, our goldsmiths work the metal to ensure the setting is both aesthetically refined, and securely set.
Demi Rubover Engagement Rings
This approach can make for a particularly unique, unusual engagement ring. This style of setting sees the same techniques used as in a typical rubover setting, however the diamond is only partly edged by metal work - gaps are left a certain intervals.
Scallop Set Bands & Halos
As you might imagine, a scallop set diamond band sees diamonds set with scallop edged metal work, which exposes the sides of the diamonds, as well as the table, allowing for plenty of light to reach each stone. For this reason, some note a scallop set diamond band is a little sparklier than a pavé or channel set band.
Pavé Set Bands & Halos
Pavé usually refers to the setting style of a diamond band or halo. This features diamonds alternated with small ball claws, used with keep the diamonds in place, and edged with a refined strip of metal. Pavé settings can be a great way to achieve of the look of vintage engagement rings, particularly when ‘milgrain’ detailing is added.
Channel Set Bands & Halos
Channel set diamond bands have a similar aesthetic to pavé, however, removing the ball claws between each diamond give this style a more contemporary edge. Instead of using ball claws, diamonds are set closely together and secured by the outer metal work of either side of the band. This style looks particularly good with princess cut and emerald cut diamonds, as the straight edged diamonds can sit side by side, totally flush.